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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.