Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
